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Published fragrance reviews from jtd.
32 published reviews · 0 helpful votes
The earthy aspect of patchouli, and the warm stone-scent aspects of cistus labdanum are the thread that joins these two key players in Patchouli Leaves. Sweetness isn’t hidden, but certainly isn’t pushed to the front. I find the patch that is there exactly the viscous, hippy patch that I was looking for. But it’s perfe...
Read review →This is an interesting floral/fruity chypre. It is largely linear, not a common trait for a chypre, and while it is sweet, the sweetness lies in the floral notes and not the fruity notes. The rose is candied, but the fruit note, somewhere between melon and pear, is tart and sharp. There are many notes listed (rose, ber...
Read review →This is an interesting floral/fruity chypre. It is largely linear, not a common trait for a chypre, and while it is sweet, the sweetness lies in the floral notes and not the fruity notes. The rose is candied, but the fruit note, somewhere between melon and pear, is tart and sharp. There are many notes listed (rose, ber...
Read review →Soir de Lune is a throwback to a genre whose heyday was the 1970s-1980s: the heavy rose chypre. Maybe it’s a tribute, maybe it’s an attempt to revive a faded genre, but it lands squarely in the company of Ungaro’s Diva, Sherrer’s Scherrer, Lauder’s Knowing, even Paloma Picasso’s Paloma. It’s often compared to L’Arte di...
Read review →The earthy aspect of patchouli, and the warm stone-scent aspects of cistus labdanum are the thread that joins these two key players in Patchouli Leaves. Sweetness isn’t hidden, but certainly isn’t pushed to the front. I find the patch that is there exactly the viscous, hippy patch that I was looking for. But it’s perfe...
Read review →The proposition of crossing the bright effusive tenor-like quality of an eau de cologne (the genre, not the dilution) with the concentration of an eau de parfum is a wonderful idea, but is not particularly new. Previous attempts have tried to make the classical edc notes (citrus, herbs, etc.) last all day. The only su...
Read review →Why is orange so difficult to give a leading role in perfumery? Bergamot, a specific bitter orange oil, is one of the most ubiquitous elements in perfumery, but orange, as in juice, as in peel one and eat it, tends to miss the mark. Orange Sanguine smells like an orange oil cleaning product. That is, until the orange...
Read review →The irresistible force, the immovable object. The rock and the hard place. He-man and She-ra. Leather and oud are the bad-boy/bad-girl notes of perfumery. They've both been considered vulgar, impolite and slutty. They're the enfants terribles of pretty perfumery. It makes perfect sense that they'd be taken up by niche...
Read review →Why is this called Envy? Should it inspire envy? Symbolize envy? Should I value envy? Sounds much more like a Calvin Klein fragrance wanna-be name, but I bought it, so who’s to say the marketing didn’t work? No. 19 is a sharp green floral, PR Metal is a flinty green floral, Alliage is a cool green floral. Envy is a sou...
Read review →I don’t have a lot to add to what others have said about JHL, and certainly nothing particularly clever, but I would like to add my applause. What a great fragrance for men, and thank you, Aramis for re-releasing it. I would love to smell this on a young person who might discover complexity, plush and density from this...
Read review →The rose is often maligned among fumies. It's quaint, it's prosaic, it's the low hanging fruit of floral perfumes. It's lovely on the bush but uninteresting in the bottle. Perhaps the rose's greatest sin among the cognicsienti: it's common. I see it differently. The rose’s ability to play the common denominator makes i...
Read review →I’m from a small town in Connecticut. Not, Suburban-New-York-Connecticut. New-England-Connecticut. In my 1960s-1970s, the New England countryside was a place of wonder and democracy. The woods were a frame of mind as much as they were a location. Though I never thought of anything local as particularly exotic, pine was...
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