One of the best of the 80s aromatics.
A scintillating fougere that immediately makes me feel nostalgic upon smelling its opening, a clarion report of lavender, clary sage, and tarragon evoking misty, simpler times, simpler ways, of expression, and of living. A green, coniferous, herbal cloud in time settles into a sumptuous accord of leather, patchouli, an...
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It's a hard pass.
This smells like an upscale mall that contains a Lululemon, Chico's, Free People, Madewell, an Anthropologie, with a Bloomingdale's, a Nordstrom, and Neiman Marcus for anchors. In other words, it has that "basic" appeal for a niche release, as crude as it may sound. I detect what I believe to be a Teak Note base that I...
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[From 1984 Ma Collection mini]
The verdant, vernal tenderness of Vacances is like a pastoral dream where all my favorite florals coalesce euphorically in a way that never would in reality. The lilacs and mimosa are blooming at the same time and their harmony is unfamiliar, yet sublime. There are hawthorn trees in bloom, with a carpet of bluebells at...
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'Country Estate' of the Mind
I cannot resist the rejection of the present that I feel, an almost pernicious disconnect. No, it is not merely the middle-aged malaise of a luddite clinging on to the past and refusing to remove the rose-tinted bifocals when recalling nostalgia. It feels more like a pathology: I shudder, sweat, feel unsettled, when I...
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Chicka-bow.
Clint is a light and lively Chant-esque (it may even be Bernard, we don't know for sure!) quinoline-chypre that opens much like Aramis in its piercing aldehydes and bergamot, but no sooner than this fanfare are we met with the body of Clint (chicka-bow). It's a body of musky clary sage on a bed of vetiver and labdanum,...
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A fantastic fougere/chypre hybrid overshadowed by it's mega-hit flanker.
Few seem to realize that Drakkar Noir was actually one of the earlier "flankers" in existence (Magie Noire being another, as the flanker of Lancome's 1950 release Magie). The original Drakkar, a citrus aromatic in the spirit of its time, is one where it is safer to go with the latest version possible and hope for a wel...
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Dewy Florals.
The smell of an ever-warming spring. May is fast approaching and soon the ground cover will include that of lily of the valley in bloom, but also that of the less-celebrated but beautiful smelling Canada mayflower (Maianthemum canadense) with their aroma reminiscent of laundry taken in fresh from the line and imbued wi...
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A travesty.
This one is helplessly unbalanced and muddled, with pepper and saffron competing to be the alpha in the opening while a bunch of other less-domineering and gentle elements are left to languish in the background. What's truly heartbreaking is that I detect through the mind-bending chaos some lovely natural materials per...
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Rough-hewn.
I recall a Post cereal named Blueberry Morning that I used to eat the hell out of in high school in the 90s. It was delicious. This, not so much. In fact after an immediate hit of synthetic blueberry fragrance oil, no sooner after that does this nearly singe my nosehairs with a terrifying slug of what seems like safral...
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'Country Estate' of the Mind
I cannot resist the rejection of the present that I feel, an almost pernicious disconnect. No, it is not merely the middle-aged malaise of a luddite clinging on to the past and refusing to remove the rose-tinted bifocals when recalling nostalgia. It feels more like a pathology: I shudder, sweat, feel unsettled, when I...
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[From 1984 Ma Collection mini]
The verdant, vernal tenderness of Vacances is like a pastoral dream where all my favorite florals coalesce euphorically in a way that never would in reality. The lilacs and mimosa are blooming at the same time and their harmony is unfamiliar, yet sublime. There are hawthorn trees in bloom, with a carpet of bluebells at...
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Texturally significant.
I have long dreamed of a perfume that has a realistic olive oil accord. When I was experimenting with perfume composition a number of years ago, I acquired an olive fruit absolute from Hermitage Oils, and I sketched a few different ideas of how I would incorporate it in formulas. One such sketch had me combining it wit...
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