Milk and licorice pudding
A single nugget of myrrh mercy-drowned in a pudding bowl of waxen vanilla, with a sweet amber accord thickening it up like arrowroot. Myrrh will out, of course, and in Myrrhiad, it comes through as the soft, sappy licorice accent running along the back of the scent like rubber tracking. Think the chewy licorice vines y...
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Rich, sexy ambery-patch with an oaky patina
Out of the vaguely familial group of ambery, vanillic patchoulis, I find Patchouli Leaves to be one of the most satisfying and comforting. The marketing copy for this boasts that the patchouli leaves for this fragrance were first soaked in vanilla extract and then left to macerate for two whole years in an oak barrel....
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Cocoa-scented body cream, not the Terry's Chocolate Orange experience I'd been hoping for
Sorriso opens with a blast of cocoa-flavored wax, quite similar to the scent of the Vaseline cocoa butter lotion. This is cast over what smells to me like a sharp, almost soapy white musk but realize later must be the vanilla (vanillin). There are hints of coconut tanning oil, minty Carmex lip balm, a soft and incredib...
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Milk and licorice pudding
A single nugget of myrrh mercy-drowned in a pudding bowl of waxen vanilla, with a sweet amber accord thickening it up like arrowroot. Myrrh will out, of course, and in Myrrhiad, it comes through as the soft, sappy licorice accent running along the back of the scent like rubber tracking. Think the chewy licorice vines y...
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Pungent osmanthus
Probably influenced by the oudy pungency of the osmanthus absolute in Auphorie’s Miyako, Barcenilla sets about exploring the less polite aspects of this most expensive material, framing it with a host of equally pungent materials – Indian tuberose, myrrh, saffron, and bay rum. This has the effect of ‘de-floralizing’ th...
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The waft of Gitanes as we docked at Cherbourg
I have been testing the perfumes by Sven Pritzkoleit, and I think that although few are actually wearable, they are very bold, new, and have something to say. They are all a bit harsh at first, and all of them work more as separate accords just smashed together rather than a real, complete perfume, but some of them jus...
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Milk and licorice pudding
A single nugget of myrrh mercy-drowned in a pudding bowl of waxen vanilla, with a sweet amber accord thickening it up like arrowroot. Myrrh will out, of course, and in Myrrhiad, it comes through as the soft, sappy licorice accent running along the back of the scent like rubber tracking. Think the chewy licorice vines y...
Read review →
Rich, sexy ambery-patch with an oaky patina
Out of the vaguely familial group of ambery, vanillic patchoulis, I find Patchouli Leaves to be one of the most satisfying and comforting. The marketing copy for this boasts that the patchouli leaves for this fragrance were first soaked in vanilla extract and then left to macerate for two whole years in an oak barrel....
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Candied white floral
This primarily tuberose and jasmine-centric scent smells quite natural and rich, but it comes draped in a ‘lemon drop’ accord that coats the flowers in a thin layer of wax or sugar, like the gummy outer layer on a lollipop that has gone two years past its prime (I am whispering this into the ether in the hope that some...
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Mistral was the more apt moniker
Mistral was a good name for this (now re-named Riviera) because it really does smell like a bunch of garrigue herbs - anise, wild mint, mastic - and tangy citruses bruised and whipped up into the salty sting of the Mistral wind that occasionally pummels the South of France. A colleague of mine once brought me into the...
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Burnt, dried fruit incense, at once sweet and dirty
Arturetto Landi is obviously a perfumer who likes to balance out bitter resins with mulled wine and stewed fruits. I bet he is the kind of man who would never take his morning espresso without something dolce on the side, an amaretto or a ricciarello perhaps. My kind of man, in other words. What Landi has done with 03....
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Big, earthy white floral with cocoa dampness
Paradise Soil reminds me very much of a certain era in perfume making – not so long ago – when everyone was flipping out about these huge, dirty florid fragrances that were slightly crazy in their construction, smashing together untrammeled Big White (or Yellow) Florals with thick musks and enough nag champa and patcho...
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