We're all going on a Summer Holiday
I love the enthusiasm of this. A green field of flowers fruits and grass, Vacances is a bit gauche but really delightful. It's a celebration of summer, and the first paid holidays in France - which began the year Vacances was released. It seems designed to channel the joy of urban workers on discovering the countryside...
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cosmetics and Tweed
A dry herbal green chypre featuring a smooth body of lilac, cyclamen and jasmin. Rose and aldehydes act as the main modifiers. Musk ambrette can be found in the base. Vivre belongs to the deeply unfashionable genre of tailored chypres along with such greats as Givenchy III and Y. Thanks to Max Gavarry for the analysis...
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Wonder-bilt
Orange blossom and tuberose ride on a gentle wave of aldehydes, where they meet fresh green, and citrus - pineapple. A praline accord fills the space underneath with a quite neutral and slightly oily hazelnut paste, and this sits opposite a dry, lightly spiced tobacco leaf. There is a vague hairspray ambience, as thoug...
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We're all going on a Summer Holiday
I love the enthusiasm of this. A green field of flowers fruits and grass, Vacances is a bit gauche but really delightful. It's a celebration of summer, and the first paid holidays in France - which began the year Vacances was released. It seems designed to channel the joy of urban workers on discovering the countryside...
Read review →
cosmetics and Tweed
A dry herbal green chypre featuring a smooth body of lilac, cyclamen and jasmin. Rose and aldehydes act as the main modifiers. Musk ambrette can be found in the base. Vivre belongs to the deeply unfashionable genre of tailored chypres along with such greats as Givenchy III and Y. Thanks to Max Gavarry for the analysis...
Read review →
Renascence of the Oriental
Where it was Moguls and Harems that inspired the Oriental prototypes of Les Parfums de Rosine, Samsara is a neo-orientalist work that bears parallels to the phenomenon of Indian Haute Couture which emerged in the 1980s. The style, based on a hybrid of Indian and Western forms and known as Bollywood Ballgown, was a lavi...
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Trésor per Donna
Not being able to find a vintage mini, I have to compare Tuscany per Donna to a 2012 bottle of Trésor; which, according to Bois de Jasmin (who describes Sophia Grojsman as her mentor) has changed, and changed a lot. In the light of that, I'd still say Tuscany per Donna is a blatant rip off of Trésor (1990) even down to...
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A Rose by any other Name would not smell as Sweet
Another take on the Oriental, this time using amber made with storax instead of vanilla. The dull, soft sweet character of storax is accompanied for some of the time by rose, and between them, they create an amusing show of Turkish Delight flecked with incense, which is cast in a resin and bitter spice shell. But stora...
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expressionist enchantment
A richly atmospheric juice of burnt embers and incense; where woodbark, brown humus and evergreen leaves lie strewn with red sweets. No picnic in the woods this but Hansel and Gretel abandoned in the Dunkelwald (Dark Forest). A beguiling tour de force that resonates with something deep in the unconscious. (Fairytale in...
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Agrestic Cologne
An old school Italian cologne; green, herbal and fresh. It has the ambience of a café in the hills, tobacco stained and rustic, filled with working men (only men - this is a rough and ready style where the notes are clearly defined; there -is- a floral heart and vanillin, but Fresco has no truck with the dandified haze...
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Wonder-bilt
Orange blossom and tuberose ride on a gentle wave of aldehydes, where they meet fresh green, and citrus - pineapple. A praline accord fills the space underneath with a quite neutral and slightly oily hazelnut paste, and this sits opposite a dry, lightly spiced tobacco leaf. There is a vague hairspray ambience, as thoug...
Read review →
Wonder-bilt
Orange blossom and tuberose ride on a gentle wave of aldehydes, where they meet fresh green, and citrus - pineapple. A praline accord fills the space underneath with a quite neutral and slightly oily hazelnut paste, and this sits opposite a dry, lightly spiced tobacco leaf. There is a vague hairspray ambience, as thoug...
Read review →